Assignment 2: Light Painting

1. Constant Light

2. Flash 

3. Drawing

Lab 7: Save The Pixels

ISO 400

 

Camera Meter Exposure

Overexpose

Underexpose

I think the properly expose picture gives the best exposure because since she is wearing white on a white background, the properly expose image is the one that gives the best contrast between her and the background. 

ISO 1600

Well Expose Image

100% - Well expose picture

100% - Underexpose picture

The underexpose picture has the noise worse mainly because since it's darker, we can more of the noise.

RAW/JPG

RAW

RAW

JPG

The JPG image was developed in the camera so the picture has more contrast, for example. Before turning the photographs in black and white, the JPG also had more saturation, 

Lab 6: Histograms

High-Key

Low-Key

Variety of Tones

A. In my high-key photo, the pixels fall more on the right of the histogram.

B. When the pixels are completely white, they have no informations in them or when it's overexposed.

C. In my low-key image, the pixels fall more on the left of the histogram.

D. The areas where it is completely or almost black. 

E. I would say that the pixels fall more in the middle of the histogram.

F. The areas where it's completely dark and completely overexposed or white. 

G. Yes because while shooting I can see the histogram in the live view, so I can control the high-key and low-key. We can see the difference between of the two.

H. I would say that the variety of tones shows the most dynamic range because it touches different areas of the histogram. Some pixels are in the high-key zone, some are in the low-key zone and most are in the middle. 

Lab 5: Noise Reduction

ISO: 100 

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 2 sec.

N.R Setting: Low

ISO: 100 

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 2 sec.

N. R. Setting: Standard

ISO: 100 

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 2 sec.

N. R. Setting: High

ISO: 100 

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 3.2 sec.

Long Exp. Noise Reduction: On

ISO: 100 

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 3.2 sec.

Everything off

ISO: 800

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 0.3 sec

N.R. Setting: Low

ISO: 800

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 0.3 sec

N. R. Setting: Standard

ISO: 800

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 0.3 sec

N. R. Setting: High

ISO: 800

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 0.5 sec

Long Exp. Noise Reduction: On

ISO: 800

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 0.6 sec

Everything Off

ISO: 3200

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 1/8

N. R. Setting: Low

ISO: 3200

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 1/8

N. R. Setting: Standard

ISO: 3200

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 1/8

N. R. Setting: High

ISO: 3200

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 1/6

Long Exp. Noise Reduction: On

ISO: 3200

Aperture: f/13

Shutter Speed: 1/6

Everything Off

When zooming in, we can really see the noise reduction and when you compare the different pictures, you see a difference.  The more the setting of the noise reduction is high, the more soft the picture looks. I would use the camera noise reduction, but I would set it to low or standard so I don't lose much details, I want to have a bigger control on how much noise reduction I want from Lightroom. I think the standard gave the best result in terms of noise reduction and not loosing a lot of details at the same time. 

Lab 4: White Balance

Library

WB: Auto

WB: Thungsten

WB: Custom

Two Different Colours Light

WB: Auto

With the auto white balance, we can see that it's way less warm than the other two. One part of her face is more on the greenish side and the other is in the warm colours. 

WB: Shade

With the "shade" white balance, the contrast of seeing two different is not as obvious like in the first picture. The entire photo is on the warm colours side.

WB: Fluorescent 

With the fluorescent white balance, we can see more of a contrast between two colours than the middle photograph. The picture is, I would say, more on the magenta-ish side. 

Wrong WB

 WB: Cloudy

Clearly using the "cloudy" white balance in an interior environment is definitely not pretty. It's warmer than it should be. The feel of this picture is (also because of his face expression) something that reminds me of an old action movie. 

Assignment 1

Sport

Shutter Speed: 1/15 (on tripod)

Aperture: f/10

ISO: 100

The sport picture was the hardest to shoot because I had almost to none ideas of what to take photos of. When I went outside to photograph for the landscape shot, I saw some people cross-country skiing and I thought that it would be interesting to take pictures of. Unfortunately, the only lens I had was a wide-angle one and I didn't want to disturb them trying to take pictures close to them. I wish I had a telephoto with me if I knew because the instructions said "the closer you can get to the action the better." and clearly they are very small. 

Panning

Shutter Speed: 1/8

Aperture: f/16

ISO: 125

After many tries, this shot was the one I think was the best. Panning is a little bit harder than it looks. After taking the shots, I realized that in my pictures the subject was not entirely sharp, I wished that I would have taken more pictures to have a perfectly sharp subject. 

Night scene

Shutter Speed: 30.0 sec

Aperture: f/13

ISO: 400

I took this night photo and I was really happy with it, but I wish that the trailing light made by cars was more in the picture, I feel like it's too at the bottom of the picture. Clearly, the subject is more the trees, so maybe having more of the trailing light would have more respected the instructions of the night image. In addition, I'll say that taking a picture at night and during the winter is really hard because my hands were freezing, not the greatest experience. 

Portrait

Shutter Speed: 1/25 (on tripod)

Aperture: f/1.8

ISO: 800

For the portrait, I wanted to do something different or interesting, so I had the idea of taking the portrait when the sun goes down. I kind of forgot that it's hard to take a portrait at night because there's not much light so it's hard to have a right exposed subject. I tried to light the face with a phone flashlight. Next time, I will remember that maybe taking a portrait when the sun goes down is not the best idea, certainly when you have no artificial light source with you. 

Landscape

Shutter Speed: 1/15 (on tripod)

Aperture: f/18

ISO: 100

Taking a landscape in winter is not the best thing to take pictures of because everything in my opinion is so blend and "the same". I feel like there's not really things interesting about a winter landscape, especially when there's no snow on trees (which I find very beautiful). In addition, it's a pain to take photographs of winter due to the fact that I was so cold during the time I took the photos. I had to take off my gloves to press the button on my camera and also change the settings, so my hands were completely frozen. It's really not a fun experience. 

Lab 3: Focal Length

Still Life

Lens: 70-100mm

Focal Length: 108mm

Aperture: f/4.5

Lens: 10-18mm

Focal Length: 12mm

Aperture: f/5.0

Lens: 18-55mm

Focal Length: 53mm

Aperture: f/5.6

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Depending on the focal length, the distortion seen in the pictures can be more accentuate. When the focal length is short (like my picture with the 12mm focal length), we can see that the distortion on the edges is more accentuate than the picture with the 53mm focal length, for example. Also a short focal length has more background than the others.

People

Lens: 18-55mm

Focal Length: 41mm

 Lens: 70-300m
Focal Length: 86mm

Lens: 10-18mm

Focal Length: 18mm

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Just like the pictures of still life, we can see that the shorter the focal length is, the more distortion is seen in the images. When you get closer to your subjects, because of the small focal length, their faces gets more distorted than if you take a bigger focal length. The depth of field is bigger depending on how small the focal length is, the background is a bit more sharp in the 18mm focal length photo than the background in the 86mm focal length photo. 

Focal Length & Depth of Field

Lens: 18-55mm

Focal Length: 34mm

Aperture: f/4.5

 Lens: 70-300mm
Focal Length: 100mm
Aperture: f/4.5

Lens: 10-18mm

Focal Length: 10mm

Aperture: f/4.5

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Just like I said previously, the depth of field changes depending on how small the focal length is, meaning that the smaller your focal length is, the more bigger depth of field there is. When the focal length is bigger, the shallower the depth of field is. 

Test Your Lens

 Lens: 18-55mm
Focal Length: 36mm
Aperture: f/8.0

Lens: 18-55mm

Focal Length: 36mm

Aperture: f/11

 Lens: 18-55mm
Focal Length: 26mm
Aperture: f/22

 Lens: 70-300mm
Focal Length: 119mm
Aperture: f/4.0

 Lens: 70-300mm
Focal Length: 119mm
Aperture: f/8.0

 Lens: 10-18mm
Focal Length: 12mm
Aperture: f/5.6

 Lens: 10-18mm
Focal Length: 12mm
Aperture: f/8.0

Lens: 10-18mm

Focal Length: 12mm

Aperture: f/16

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In the photos where I used the 10-18mm lens, we can see at the borders distortion more accentuated. We really can see the borders of the white not being perfectly straight. Also, in the images where I used a focal length of 119mm, when you get really close, it looks like there's more chromatic aberration than the pictures with a focal length of 36mm.